Hand pleating

Introduction

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Different variants of sunray pleating

In hand pleating, the key to success is creating a form that reproduces the desired type of pleating. In the pleating process, the material is placed between two halves of the form, and then the form is folded and exposed to high temperature and/or steam. The exact process is adjusted to each order and depends on many factors, including the type of material, its reaction to temperature, the shape of the form. Many years of experience in this field allow us to perfectly select the parameters and processes necessary to obtain the best effect both in visual aspect and durability.  

Thanks to our own mould workshop we are able to meet any order, even the most unusual. In addition to popular sunray pleating models, we also offer more sophisticated patterns (sunray pleating with additional pleats, pleats with varying height, cloche type pleating with flat pleats, geometric patterns and sunray pleating with godets) - each with the possibility of adapting to the requirements of your production.

Sunray pleating

Sunray pleating is the most popular hand pleating type that we provide. There are three main types of sunray pleating:

  1. Classic sunray pleating
  2. Sunray pleating with godets
  3. Cloche type pleating with flat pleats

Classic sunray pleating

Classic sunray pleating

Classic sunray pleating

The basic version of sunray pleating - most often performed on patterns that are a segment of a circle (usually 1/2 circle, less often 1/4 circle). It is also possible to pleat patterns of a different shape, e.g. for sleeves or other inserts. In this type of pleating, the height of the pleat changes from very small at the upper edge of e.g. a skirt, and increases towards the bottom. Usually, 42 pleats (shorter skirts), 54 pleats (longer) and 60 pleats (very long) are used on 1/2 circle patterns, but we can make pleating templates with any number of pleats. Making a skirt or dress from one 1/2 circle element will not always be sufficient and visually a much better effect will be obtained by combining e.g. 2 1/2 circle cut-outs, or adding another 1/4 circle element to them, as with each additional element the visual volume of the skirt increases. The height of the pleats at the bottom and top edges of the sole is determined by:

  • At the top edge from the circumference of the skirt at the waist, the number of patterns used to construct the skirt, the number of pleats
  • At the bottom edge from the length of the skirt, the number of patterns used to construct the skirt, and the number of pleats (the longer the skirt, the larger the pleat at the bottom edge)

Sunray pleating with godets

Sunray pleating with one godet level

Sunray pleating with one godet level

Godets are an extension of the classic sunray pleating concept by adding additional, smaller pleats between the normal sunray pleats. Most often, one additional 'level' of pleats is added - this variant is called a single godet. However, we also make so-called double godets, where in addition to adding the first 'level' we add one more, slightly smaller. Adding this level increases the number of pleats, and consequently reduces the height of the pleat at the lower edge of the sunray skirt.
Templates for pleating godets are slightly more complex due to the above-mentioned addition of additional 'levels' of pleats. For this reason, most godet forms cover a smaller range of the circle and it is possible to pleat 1/4 circle patterns in this variant, some variants can be pleated using 1/2 circle patterns.

Cloche type pleating with flat pleats

Cloche type pleating with flat pleats

Cloche type pleating with flat pleats
Cloche type pleating with box pleats

Cloche type pleating with box pleats

Cloche type pleating is a combination of the shape of the sunray pleating pattern and the selected type of flat pleating. In contrast to the classic simple pleating (described in the "machine pleating" section), the use of a circle-shaped pattern allows for the height of the pleat to be changed starting at the upper edge of the element (the smallest pleat) and increasing towards the lower edge of the element. All cloche type pleats are done by hand and their parameters can be adjusted to your production needs. It is possible, for example, to use box pleats or repeat pleats and box pleats in a selected configuration. Cloche type pleating require a slightly different fixing process and due to technical limitations, only 1/4 circle patterns can be pleated in this variant.

Preparing the pattern

In addition to preparing the right mould, choosing the variant and the number of pleats in sunray pleating, another aspect is also important - the proper preparation of the pattern. For your convenience, we provide templates that allow for the correct preparation of the pattern. If you would like to start producing garments, that would utilize sunray type pleating, please contact us - based on your requirements, we will advise you on what to pay attention to and send you a template appropriate for a given case, we will also advise you on how to prepare the pattern, e.g. to leave space for later sewing, finish the edges or determine the radius of the cut for the selected waist circumference.

Edge colouring

Edge colouring

Edge colouring

In cooperation with our printing department, we have introduced the possibility of obtaining colored edges for classic sunray pleating, which allows to emphasize the beauty of finely pleated material. It is possible to dye the edges in solid colors (e.g. black, as in the photo next to it), tonal transitions or using patterns. It is also possible to dye only part of the length of the edges of the pleats (e.g. 20 cm from the top edge of the skirt).

Flat pleats

Flat pleats

Flat pleats

Simple types of pleating are usually done by machine. Sometimes, however, we also carry out projects where the pleated material requires a little more attention. In such cases, the best solution is hand pleating. E.g. in the case of non-standard materials (e.g. with a higher material weight or requiring additional fixing processes) or non-standard patterns (e.g. oversized pleats, progressive pleats), we offer you the possibility of making patterns of flat pleats, box pleats, fancy pleats in a selected size. We carry out pleating on non-standard materials and/or in non-standard dimensions (e.g. curtains).

Fancy pleats

Fancy pleats - basketweave

Fancy pleats - basketweave

In addition to the typical types of hand pleating, we offer a wide range of decorative patterns, used as a whole or in smaller fragments as applications. For some of these special patterns we also offer fabric backing (with glued interlining), which increases the durability of the pattern and makes it easier to apply. Please visit our patterns tab for some of the photos of selected patterns.

Custom pleating

In addition to the above-mentioned service options, we also carry out custom orders. If you want to make a different type of pleating, try to make it on a different material (including atypical ones), combine different services or try to recreate pleating based on a photo or model - please contact us.

Knowledge Base: Pleating

The pleating process consists of two stages — the first is arranging the material into the chosen pattern, and the second is setting this arrangement using high temperature and pressure. Any material — synthetic fibers, artificial (e.g. viscose), or natural (e.g. cotton) - can be arranged, but setting the pleats is only possible with synthetic fibers and wool.
  • In synthetic materials, the high temperature melts the fibers slightly; as they cool, the material "remembers" the folds.
  • With wool, steam can be used in addition to temperature, allowing wool to retain the pattern.
  • Other materials are resistant to heat and steam, so to maintain pleats in e.g. cotton shirts, additional securing is necessary — usually by sewing each pleat. Otherwise, pleated items will eventually return to their flat, original form.

Pleating (creating folds) is possible, but will not be permanent. Natural fibers resist heat, so with environmental temperature, humidity, and pressure during wearing, pleats "iron out" back to flat. To maintain pleats, extra securing such as stitching of each fold is needed. Some chemical treatments can also make fabrics — like silk — respond to heat and fix the pattern, but such treatments alter the fabric's properties. This essentially turns silk into something more like polyester (due to added chemical treatment) and in such case it is easier to just use polyester directly.

Several tests can be performed:
  1. If you suspect polyester or other synthetics—create a fold on a small piece and iron it (temperature: between level 2 and 3 on an iron). If you get a sharp crease that survives delicate washing, pleating is probably possible.
  2. For wool—make a fold and use a steam iron. If the crease is sharp, durable pleating is likely.
  3. Alternatively, burn a small, secured piece (e.g., 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm) and observe:
  4. Wool: Smells like burning hair, burns slowly, goes out when removed from flame, edge becomes crumbly.
  5. Silk: Burns similarly to wool, leaves small, brittle balls that turn to ash.
  6. Cotton: Burns even after removing the flame, smells like burning paper; the burnt part doesn’t crumble as easily.
  7. Polyester: Burns and melts slowly; smells chemical; edge is black and hard, not crumbly.
  8. Nylon: Burns like polyester, but the edge is lighter grey.All material tests — especially those involving open flames or chemicals—should be carried out only by trained professionals in a controlled, safe environment. Working with fire and chemical substances poses risks to your health and safety. Please do not attempt these procedures without proper training, equipment, and safety measures.

Sew each pleat; you can also reinforce pleated fabric with special glue interlining. There are patterns in our offer where interlining is also advised, due to the direction of the pleats - the interlining keeps patterns stable and prevents stretching of the material.

Polyester pleated fabrics may be machine-washed using a delicate program. They should be dried hung up (not in a tumble dryer). Ironing may flatten the pleats or introduce new creases, so it should be used with great caution or ideally avoided entirely in pleated areas.

Fabrics have two threads: the weft runs across the width, and the warp runs parallel to the side edges. The fabric always "remembers" the arrangement of weft versus warp. If the warp and weft are not correctly aligned (e.g., the fabric is stretched askew), one edge of the skirt may drift sideways, as the weft strives to straighten itself.

The simplest way is to tear a piece of fabric from one selvage to the other. The tear line should be at a right angle to the selvage. If there is no right angle, the fabric is skewed.
I have a photo/model/stencil but can't identify the pleating type.
You may send your materials (photos/stencil scans) to our email or send the models/stencils to our company address.. After analyzing the materials provided, we shall inform you about the type of pleating, suitable elements for the process, and provide a price quotation.

Prices depend on the chosen pattern, parameters, and the material in which the service is to be performed. Simple machine-made pleating costs about 15 EUR (64 PLN) per running meter, whereas hand pleating — for example, a simple sunray half-circle skirt — starts at approximately three times this amount. For a precise quotation for your project or model, please contact us.

Sunray pleating is mainly used for skirts/dresses and is most often done on semicircular cutouts, featuring a small pleat at the top edge which enlarges toward the hem.

Sunray pleating can be performed on almost any material. Durable pleating is only possible on wool, polyester, and other synthetic fabrics.

Although pleating is possible on cotton, viscose, or silk, it will not be permanent, and after some time the fabric will return to its original flat form. To maintain pleats, extra securing such as stitching of each fold is needed.

First, determine the number of pieces (e.g., 1 or 2) and their shapes (e.g., half-circle, quarter-circle) required for the skirt. Using templates provided by our company, calculate the cutting parameters, considering waist circumference, length, and allowances for sewing elements together.

We usually pleat pieces that are segments of a circle—half or quarter circles. Sometimes, two half-circle elements are pleated and sewn together to form a full circle skirt. Cutting a sunray pattern from a full circle often requires a large piece of fabric (about 2.5 m in diameter), usually exceeding standard material width. A half-circle cut yields a piece of 1.25 m by 2.5 m, which typically fits on standard material width.

Usually not practical due to fabric size limits. For very short items (like sleeves), nearly full circle pleating is possible.

Allow approximately 1 cm extra material at the edge so that all pleats are even after sewing.

The basic model is a half-circle piece with a curve of 10–30 cm, a length of 60 cm, and 42 pleats per half-circle. Other common quantities are 48, 54, and 60 pleats. Custom pleat numbers and shapes are possible.

Pleat height at top/bottom depends on sunray pattern parameters: top curve radius, and number of pleats determine top height; radius, pleat count, and length determine bottom height.
pleat height in sunray pleating

pleat height in sunray pleating


To get larger pleats at the top you can either decrease the number of pleats (resulting in longer segments) or increase the radius of the curve (making the edge longer and the segments longer after division). Extending the curve will also increase the waist circumference.
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